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The Karate Monkey is our 29" wheeled do-everything mountain bike. Why 29"? Because
larger diameter wheels offer more traction and the have the ability to roll up and over
obstacles better. The traction is enhanced by having a longer contact patch of
rubber on the ground, which helps prevent your rear
wheel from slipping on loose terrain and allows you
to maintain your speed through corners. 29"
wheels also have more air volume, so you can
lower the air pressure more than you are
accustomed to with an equivalent 26" tire.
This enhances both the traction and
rollover characteristics. Whether
riding through babyhead rocks,
braking bumps or tree roots, you’ll notice
yourself getting through these sections much
easier.
We designed the Karate Monkey to ride like a truly agile mountain bike. For one,
we use short chainstays for fast cornering. This was accomplished by curving the
seat tube away from the rear tire, effectively creating more front derailleur/rear
tire clearance and putting the rear wheel under your butt. Toe overlap with the big front
wheel was eliminated by some tweaking of the geometry, while still maintaining the ride
of a sweet singletrack machine.
The Karate Monkey is not just an off-road specific bike though, it is versatile like all Surly
bikes. We use horizontal dropouts with a derailleur hanger so you can ride it single-speed,
fixed gear, internally geared or with derailleur multi-gear drivetrains. We also spec it with
International Standard disc brake tabs and removable cantilever bosses, so you have all
possible brake options. Want a beefy touring/commuting/cyclocross/all-around bike? Just
swap the tires for some 700c skinnies and go.
Like all Surly frames and forks, the Karate Monkey frameset is built with Surly 4130
CroMoly steel tubing. The main triangle is butted to shave some weight and offer a silky
ride, yet is tough enough to withstand the rigors of everyday thrashing. The tough fork
has tapered straight blades that suck up the little bumps and is suspension corrected if
you choose to swap it out for a suspension fork. Both frame and fork have enough tire
clearance for the largest 29" fatties on the market.
New for 2007, we’ve increased the downtube clearance for suspension forks that have
tall top caps. We’ve also made the 16" and 18" frames a wee bit lighter with a smaller
diameter heat-treated downtube. The size of tires and front derailleur clamps has increased
dramatically since we originally designed this in 2002, which has resulted in clearance>
issues between some front derailleurs and some rear tires. Rather than lengthening the
chainstays and permanently changing the geometry for those who don’t have clearance
issues, we’ve created new 14mm Monkey Nuts to pull the rear wheel back. These new
Monkey Nuts will keep the wheel back 14mm, eliminating all clearance issues. Plus, they
will clamp into the dropouts to stay on the frame when you remove the rear wheel.
If you’re looking for a rippin’ mountain bike or a versatile do-it-all tough bike that won’t
deflate your wallet, check out the newly improved Karate Monkey. |
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SPECS | Karate Monkey Frameset |
Tubing: |
100% Surly 4130 CroMoly steel. Main triangle double-butted. TIG-welded |
Rear dropouts: |
Surly horizontal dropouts with derailleur hanger, 135mm spaced |
Brake compatibility: |
Most International Standard disc or cantilever rim-type |
Braze-ons: |
Cantilever bosses with removable pivots, dual water bottle mounts, downtube
shift cable routing, guides for hydraulic hose or solid housing on the seatstay, standard
cable housing stops on the top tube |
Seatpost diameter: |
27.2mm |
Seatpost clamp diameter: |
30mm, Surly Constrictor included
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Headset: |
1-1/8" threadless
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Front derailleur clamp diameter: |
28.6mm |
Bottom bracket shell: |
73mm wide, 1.37 x 24t |
Chainring Clearance: |
48t max |
Fork: |
Suspension-corrected (80mm), tapered straight blade, 4130 CroMoly. International
Standard disc mount and removable canti pivots |
Color:
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Hüsker Blü or Pitch Black
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Weight: |
20" frame = 5.56 lbs. (2.52 kg)
Fork - uncut =2.59 lbs. (1.18 kg) |
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MEASUREMENTS | Measurements Key
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small |
medium |
large |
x-large |
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ST (C-T)
Inches
mm
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16.0
406.4
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18.0
457.2
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20.0
508.0
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22.0
558.8
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TT (C-C)
Inches
mm
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21.7
552.0
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22.6
574.5
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23.4
594.5
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24.2
614.3
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TT (Effec.)
Inches
mm
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22.7
576.6
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23.6
600.6
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24.3
617.5
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24.9
633.6
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HT Angle
degrees |
71.0° |
71.5° |
72.0° |
72.0° |
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ST Angle
degrees |
73.0° |
73.0° |
73.0° |
73.0° |
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BB Drop
Inches
mm |
2.7
68.0
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2.7
68.0
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2.7
68.0
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2.7
68.0
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CS Length
Inches
mm |
17.0
431.0
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17.0
431.0
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17.0
431.0
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17.0
431.0
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Wheel Base
Inches
mm |
41.1
1044.9
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41.9
1064.0
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42.4
1076.1
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43.0
1092.1
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Front-Center
Inches
mm |
24.5
623.0
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25.3
642.0
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25.7
654.0
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26.4
670.0
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S.O. Height**
Inches
mm |
30.8
781.6
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31.9
811.1
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33.0
838.2
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34.1
866.8
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HT Length
Inches
mm |
3.1
80.0
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3.5
90.0
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3.7
95.0
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4.1
105.0
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FK Length
Inches
mm |
18.4
468.0 |
18.4
468.0 |
18.4
468.0 |
18.4
468.0 |
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FK Rake
Inches
mm |
1.7
43.0 |
1.7
43.0 |
1.7
43.0 |
1.7
43.0 |
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Weight
lbs. |
5.16
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5.34
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5.56
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5.69
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**Standover height is based on a 29 x 2.1" tire that measured 737mm in diameter |
FRAME & FORK:
4130 CroMo (‘natch), main tubes
butted. The fork is externally tapered, internally butted, straight
blade, 43mm rake. Frame and fork are suspension corrected for 85mm
travel (modeled on Marzocchi 29" sus. fork ).
DISC MOUNTS:
Both front and rear are 51mm Int’l standard, but the rear
is
funky. Remember that the rear dropouts are rear loading horizontal,
so the rear disc tab has slotted holes to allow proper placement
of the caliper on the rotor. One catch here is that some do not
work. We've found that Deore
mechanicals and
Formula B4 SL mag do not work.
RUNNING GEARS:
REAR: for proper shifting with a rear derailleur, the wheel should be all the way forward in the dropout. This will put the cassette in the proper place for good shifting, plus if you’re using a QR hub, the wheel won’t be able to pull forward.
FRONT: Clamp size is 28.6mm.
Cable routing is bottom pull. Derailleur
type should be traditional, NOT top swing.
Due to the KM’s relatively short stays,
top swing ders. will not allow enough
room
for the cable fixing bolt. Even using traditional-type
front derailleurs, some people have still
experienced tire rub
on the
cable
fixing bolt due to the short stays (in
fact, with the constant re-engineering
of drivetrain types, some traditional
pull derailleurs swing in too far and rub the tire
. We've noticed an increase of this with 2004 Shimano
fronts. Hate to say it, but you're best off finding
an older model Shimano or Suntour derailleur). To address
this, KMs have begun shipping with a pair
of small washers (we call them monkey nuts)
that can be installed to hold the wheel
a few millimeters back in the rear fork
ends. Much, much more info
can
be found here.
Swapping out your front derailleur cable fixing bolt with a low profile pan head variety also does the trick. Some derailleurs' clamps and fixing assemblies are so bulky they require you to use both the Moneky nuts and the panhead bolt trick. If you have a Monkey and need some monkey nuts, check with your local shop and ask them to order FS0001.
BRAZE ONS:
KM has cable stops and hydro housing guides. Also single eyelets
at drops for fenders or rack.
IMPORTANT: if using disc brakes, you will not be able to use these
eyelets, and so need to use clip on fenders and/or a seat post mounted
rack
SURLY FRAMES IN GENERAL:
There are some things all Surlys should have done before building
one up. It is important to face the head tube before installing
the headset. The paint on the HT needs to be removed in order for
your headset to properly align and adjust. Also, the bottom bracket
shell needs to have the threads chased. Again, removing the leftover
paint is necessary to ensure proper installation. Finally, if your
Surly has a derailleur hanger, it is wise to chase the threads
of
the derailleur hanger as well.
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